Vidotour

Humans began living in present day Laos more than 10,000 years ago. Stone tool implements and skulls discovered in Huaphan and Luang Prabang provinces certify the existence of such settlements. The giant jars in Xieng Khouang province and stone columns in Huaphan province date from the Neolithic period.

The rural communities slowly formed into muang (townships) between the 4th and 8th centuries on either side of the Mekong River and along its tributaries. Between 1349 and1357 a movement emerged to concentrate the muang into a unified Lan Xang Kingdom under the command of King Fa Ngoum, a national hero. The capital stood at Xiengdong Xiengthong, now Luang Prabang. Fa Ngum’s ancestors strengthened Luang Prabang in the face of both Burmese and Vietnamese invasions. The constant attacks led to King Settathirat switching the capital from Luang Prabang to Vientiane in 1563. He was responsible for the building of the That Luang Stupa, a venerated religious shrine and the national symbol of Laos. Following Settahirat’s death in 1574 the country was raided numerous times by the Burmese while a series of ineffectual monarchs ruled Lan Xang.

In the 17th century, under the reign of King Souliyavongsa, the Kingdom entered its most stable era. European merchants and traders of the late 16th century spoke of rich and beautiful palaces and temples and splendid religious ceremonies, declaring Vientiane was the most magnificent city in Southeast Asia. At the end of the reign of King Souliyavongsa, the feudal lords of Lan Xang each contested the throne leading to the division of the country into three Kingdoms in 1713: Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Champassak.

Over the next two centuries the Thais sphere of influence steadily grew until Laos became little more than a satellite state. In a rebellion by King Anou in 1827 Vientiane was liberated from the Thais. Towards the end of the 19th century the Thais were forced to give up large parts of their territory, including Laos and Cambodia to France. Lan Xang was renamed Laos and became part of French Indochina in 1893.

Unlike Vietnam Laos was seen as the least important part of Indochina and as a result received less attention from the French authorities. Few roads, schools, hospitals or universities were created and most of the country’s administration was left in the hands of Vietnamese civil servants. This coupled with the imposition of various taxes led to rebellion, especially in the highland areas.

In 1945 the Japanese briefly took control of Laos and when they left later that same year a power vacuum was created. The Lao Issara, or Free Laos movement, led by Prince Phetsareth quickly moved into this breach to declare independence from France. Unfortunately for the Prince, King Sisavang Vong sided with the French and the Prince was forced into exile in Thailand. This resulted in the dissolution of the Lao Issara and the crowning of King Sisavang Vong as King of all Laos in 1946. In the wake of Lao Issara, the Pathet Lao was formed in the northeast of the country. The Pathet Lao received support from the Viet Minh of communist northern Vietnam and continued the struggle. Although France granted Laos sovereignty in 1953, the Pathet Lao was not convinced that government with a constitutional monarch was the answer.

After France’s defeat at the hands of the Vietnamese at the battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954, the United States began to take an active interest in Laos and in particular in supporting the Royal Lao Government. The government tried unsuccessfully to integrate Pathet Lao in the political arena. By 1962 the lines had been drawn; Pathet Lao had the backing of the North Vietnamese and the Royal Lao Government was receiving aid and arms from the US and Thailand. Almost inevitably the country was dragged into the wider conflict in Vietnam and was effectively split into four parts. The Chinese in the north, the Vietnamese in the east using the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the Thais in the West with the aid of the US-backed government and the Khmer Rouge in the south. During this time, known as the ‘Dirty War’ Laos was subjected to intense and prolonged saturation bombing by the US in an attempt to destroy the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

In 1973 Pathet Lao finally gained the advantage as the US began its withdrawal from Vietnam. In 1975 both Saigon and Phnom Penh fell and Vientiane soon followed with little opposition as the Lao People’s Democratic Republic was established.

Traditional culture in Laos has been heavily influenced by various strains of Khmer, Vietnamese and Thai cultures. The lowland Lao share the same ancestry as many Thai tribes, so the similarities between Lao and Thai culture are especially strong. This can be seen in Lao sculpture, classical music, dance-dramas and cuisine. Lao folk music is more indigenous, based around the khaen (a double row of bamboo reeds fitted into a hardwood sound box). Folk music is often accompanied by dancing or bawdy theatre. The focus of most traditional art has been primarily religious and includes wats (temples), stupas and several distinctively Lao representations of Buddha. The Lao remain skilful carvers and weavers, but traditional arts such as silversmiths and goldsmiths are declining.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY

BOUN PHA VET
Bun Pha Vet is an important religious festival in which the ‘jataka’ or birth story of Prince Vestsantara, the Buddha’s penultimate life, is recited in temples throughout the country. It is considered a particularly auspicious time (second only to Khao Phansaa) for ordination as a monk. The festival falls on a number of different dates throughout the month so that people can exchange invitations with friends and families in different villages to join in their celebrations.

MARHA PUHA (MAKKA BUSA)
This festival, held on the night of the full moon commemorates a speech given by Buddha to 1,250 enlightened monks who came to hear him without prior summons. In his sermon, the Buddha laid down the first monastic regulations and predicted his own death. Chanting and offerings mark the festival, culminating in the candlelit circumambulation of wats (temples) throughout the country. The festival is celebrated most fervently in Vientiane and at the Khmer ruins of Wat Phu, near Champasak). The festival is marked by grand parades of candle-bearing worshippers circling their local temples, merit-making, and much religious music and chanting.

VIETNAMESE/CHINESE NEW YEAR (starting date 03Feb 2011)
Vietnamese Tet and Chinese Lunar New Year are predominantly celebrated in Vientiane, Pakse and Savannakhet with parties and strings of non-stop firecrackers, as well as general merriment, boisterous parties and visits to Vietnamese and Chinese temples by the Laotian Vietnamese and Chinese communities. In addition these communities close their businesses for several days during this period.

MARCH / APRIL

WAT PHU FESTIVAL
Originally built at the base of a sacred mountain, Wat Phu is one of Laos’ most ancient and important archeological wonders. Its grand processional causeway, which leads to a steep ascent to its mountain temples, may have inspired the entrance to Angkor Wat. The Wat or temple is located near Champassak in southern Laos and dates back to the 8th century. Each February pilgrims from all over Laos come here to leave offerings and engage in various competitions including elephant racing and bull fighting as well as performances of traditional Laos music and dance. A trade fair showcasing products from southern Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam is also held. At the same time both Vientiane and Wat Phu host the Makka Busao Festival which commemorates a speech given by the Buddha to 1,250 enlightened monks who came to hear him without prior summons. Chanting and offerings mark the festival, culminating in grand parades of candle-bearing worshippers circling the temples, accompanied by much religious music and chanting.

PIMAI LAO (LAO NEW YEAR) (starting date 13Apr)
Boun Pimai or Pimai Lao is one of the most important annual festivals, particularly in Luang Prabang and celebrates the Lao New Year. The first month of the Lao New Year is actually December but festivities are delayed until April when the days are longer and the weather hotter. This is particularly advantageous when hoses are leveled at you and buckets of water dumped upon you! Pimai Lao is a combination of merriment and meditation. Similar to other regional festivals at this time of year especially Thailand, Pimai Lao is celebrated with parades, circle dances (ramwong), traditional Lao folk singing (mor lam) and enthusiastic water-throwing. The religious aspects of the festival are most apparent in Luang Prabang, where water pouring ceremonies are used to worship Buddha statues. Temple compounds are further decorated with small sand Stupas, offered in the hope of attaining good fortune and good health. The lunar New Year begins in mid-April and practically the entire country comes to a halt and celebrates. Houses are cleaned, people put on new clothes and Buddha images are cleaned. This festival is particularly picturesque in Luang Prabang, where it includes elephant processions.

MAY / JUNE

BOUN BANG FAI
Boun Bang Fai is a rocket festival with ancient origins pre-dating Buddhism itself whose aim is to invoke the rains. Large bamboo rockets are built and decorated by monks and carried in procession before being blasted skywards to invite the rains. The higher a rocket goes, the larger its builder’s ego. Designers of failed rockets are unceremoniously thrown into puddles of mud! Parades, songs, dances and partying seem to take place everywhere. This dramatic festival lasts 2 days and is also celebrated in northeast Thailand.

JULY / AUGUST

KHAO PHANSA(Commencement of Buddhist lent)
Khao Phansa, also known as Khao Watsa marks the beginning of the traditional 3 month "rains retreat" during which Buddhist monks are expected to station themselves in a single monastery. At other times of year they are allowed to travel from wat to wat or simply to wander in the countryside, but during the rainy season they forego the wandering so as not to damage rice fields or other crops. Khao Phansa begins with the July full moon and ends with the full moon in October with the Kathin ceremony where monks receive gifts. These are the most usual months for ordination and for men to enter the monasteries for short periods before they marry and is marked by numerous ordination ceremonies

BOUN HAW KHAO PADAP DIN
Haw Khao Padap Din devoted to remembering and paying respect to the dead, it is marked by the macabre ceremony of exhuming previously buried bodies, cleaning the remains, and then cremating them on the night of the full moon. Relatives then present gifts to the monks who have chanted on behalf of those who have passed away.

BOAT RACING FESTIVAL (LUANG PRABANG)(starting date 17Aug)
Boat Racing Festival is organized in Luang Prabang. This festival includes boat racing on the NamKhane River and a trade fair in Luang Prabang city. At the Khao Salak ceremony day, people visit local temples to make offering to the dead as well to share merits making.

HAW KHAO SALAK
Haw Khao Salak is also organize to devote to remembering and paying respect to the dead, it is marked by the macabre ceremony of exhuming previously buried bodies, cleaning the remains, and then cremating them on the night of the full moon. Relatives then present gifts to the monks who have chanted on behalf of those who have passed away.

SEPTEMBER /OCTOBER

BOUN AWK PHANSA (AWK WATSA)(End of Buddhist lent)
This celebrates the end of the three-month rains retreat on the day of the full moon. Monks are at last permitted to leave the temple and are presented with robes, alms bowls and other requisites of the renunciative life. One particularly beautiful aspect is Lai Hua Fai. On the eve of Awk Phansaa people gather at the nearest body of water to release dozens of small banana-leaf boats decorated with candles, incense and small flowers, in a celebration similar to the Thai Loy Krathong.

BOUN NAM (WATER FESTIVAL)
A second festival held in association with Awk Phansaa is Bun Nam (water festival) in riverside towns such as Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Savannakhet, the highly competitive Bun Nam boat races (suang heua) are held during the same time as Awk Phansaa. Smaller communities sometimes hold these races on National Day on 2nd December so that residents aren’t saddled with two costly festivals in two months.

BOAT RACING FESTIVAL (VIENTIANE)
The water festival held during Awk Pansa is spectacular; on the first day at dawn, donations and offerings are made at temples around the city; in the evening, candlelight processions are held around the temples and hundred of colorful flosta decorated with flower; incense and candle are set adrift down the Mekong river in thanksgiving to the river spirit; the next day, a popular and exciting boat racing competition is held on the Mekong.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER

BOUN THAT LUANG
Though celebrated at many temples and stupa (Wats in Laos) around the country, this festival is traditionally centered and most enthusiastically and colorfully at That Luang in Vientiane. Fairs, beauty contests, music and fireworks take place throughout the week of the full moon, and end with a candlelight procession (Wien thien) around the temple of That Luang.

PASSPORT AND VISA

A passport and visa are required for entry into Lao PDR. A regular tourist visa is valid for up to 30 days, and may be issued upon arrival at Vientiane's Wattay Airport for US$ 18.00-42.00(subject to passport holder’s nationality. Visa can be obtained on arrival at the airport immigration counter without asking for approval letter in advance. Please provide 2pcs of color photo as the same size in your passport and your passport must be valid at least 6 months in Laos.

For those wishing to extend their stay, it is possible to extend your visa at the Immigration Office in Vientiane, through travel agencies.

It is also possible to obtain a Visa-on-Arrival at the following international checkpoints for tourist visa validity for 30 days in Laos: The following is entry gates to Laos.

BY AIR:

International Airports:

-Wattay International Airport in Vientiane Capital	(Visa on arrival)
-Luang Prabang International Airport in Luang Prabang Province	(Visa on arrival)
-Pakse International Airport in Champassak Province	(Visa on arrival)

Airport departure tax is all included in passenger’s airfare

BY LAND BORDER CHECKPOINTS:

China-Laos
-Mohan - Botene , Yunnan to Luang Namtha Province Capital	(Visa on arrival)
-Xiangkok riverport on Mekong River in Luang Namtha Province	(No visa on arrival permit)
Thailand-Laos
-Chiangkhong - Houixay, Chiang Rai to Bokeo Province.	(Visa on arrival)
-Nakaxeng - Nameua, Loei to Sayabouly Province	(Visa on arrival)
-Nongkhay - Friendship Bridge , Nongkhay-Vientiane Capital	(Visa on arrival)
-Bungkan - Pakxan, Nongkhay-Bolikhamxay Province	(No visa on arrival permit)
-Nakorn Phanom - Thakhaek, Nakorn Phanom-Khammouane Province	(Visa on arrival)
-Moukdahan - Savannakhet, crossing the Mekong River	(Visa on arrival)
-Chongmek - Vangtao, Ubon Ratchathani to Champasack Province	(Visa on arrival)
Vietnam-Laos
-Tay Trang - Sobhoun, Dien Bien Laichau to Phongsaly Province	(No visa on arrival permit)
-Nameo - Banleui, Thanh Hoa to Huaphanh Province	(No visa on arrival permit)
-Namkan - Namkan, Nghe An to Xieng Khouang Province	(Visa on arrival)
-Keoneua - Nampao (Lak Sao), Ha tinh to Bolikhamxay Province.	(Visa on arrival)
-Napao - Chalo, Quangbinh to Khammouane Province	(No visa on arrival permit)
-Laobao - Dansavanh, Quang tri to Savannakhet Province.	(Visa on arrival)
-Kon Tum – Bo Y, Kon Tukm to Attapeau Province	(Visa on arrival)
Cambodia-Laos
-Dong Calor - Veun Kham, Cambodia to Champasak Province	(Visa on arrival)

DISEMBARKATION

On the plane, the passenger will be given two forms to complete. The first is an Arrival / Departure Card. This card has two parts - the immigration officer will take one part, the other must be retained for use when the passenger departs. The second form is the Customs Declaration Form. This card should be filled out before arrival at the airport.

In the airport, the passenger will get a visa application form.

VISA APPLICATION FORM

The passenger hands the completed application form with a photo and the passport to an officer. Once approved, the passport will be stamped and the passenger pays the visa fee.

IMMIGRATION

At immigration, the passenger presents their passport and immigration card. From there, passengers proceed to the luggage belt then continue on towards customs

CUSTOMS (ARRIVAL)

The customs officer will check the completed customs form and the passport. Once he has stamped the form, the passenger will proceed towards the x-ray machine. After passing the entire luggage (including hand luggage, handbags, etc.) through the machine the passenger will be picked up by our guide.

MEET AND GREET

Our guide will be holding a sign with the name of the passenger or your company logo (or Vidotour Indochina Travel). After meeting passengers in the arrival hall, the guide will accompany the guests to the car for transfer to the hotel.

CUSTOMS (DEPARTURE)

If you have purchased silver or antiques in neighboring countries, it is recommended you declare them at customs to avoid problems on departure. Importing firearms and drugs is strictly forbidden.

It is prohibited to remove antique items such as Buddha images and other ancient cultural artifacts from Laos. If you have already traveled in neighboring countries, you are advised to declare your valuable items to the customs to prevent any inconvenience upon departure. Anyone purchasing silver or copper items in Laos is also required to pay customs duty according to weight at the airport.

If you have purchased silver or antiques in neighboring countries, it is recommended you declare them at customs to avoid problems on departure. Importing firearms and drugs is strictly forbidden.

Antiques items such as Buddha images and others old cultural artifacts are prohibited to be taken out of Laos. If you have already traveled in neighboring countries, you are advised to declare your valuable items to the customs to prevent any inconvenience upon departure. One, who buys silver or copper items in Laos, is also required to pay custom duty according to weight at the airport.

Customs regulations
- Entry: Visitors should make sure that they complete immigration and customs formalities when they enter Laos. Visitors are authorized to bring the following items: 500 cigarettes, 100 cigars, or 500g of tobacco, 1 liter of alcohol, or two bottles of wine; and unlimited amount of cash, all for personal use, into Laos without taxation or penalty.
Like any other country, Laos does not allow visitors import: drugs, weapons, explosive, or pornography materials.
Important Note: Drug import is strongly prohibited and can be convicted to life or dead sentence.

- Exit: If visitors purchase silver or copper items during their stay, they might be required to pay duty upon exiting Laos, according to their weight. Antiques, especially Buddha images or parts thereof, are not permitted to leave the country. However, please declare your items to customs prior departure.

The unit of currency in Laos is the Kip which is available in 5,000, 2,000, 1,000, 500, 100 and 50 kip notes. U.S. Dollars, Thai Baht and the local currency are all accepted currencies. At the time of printing, the exchange rate was 8,500 Lao Kip - US$ 1.00. Travelers’ cheques and credit cards are accepted in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. If you are traveling to other places please ensure you have enough ‘hard currency’. Most major hotels and restaurants accept Visa and MasterCard (but not American Express) credit cards.

ATMs are now available in Luang Prabang, Vientiane and Pakse.

VACCINATIONS

No vaccinations are required. However, visitors are advised to have up-to-date inoculations for Cholera, Hepatitis A and B, Malaria, Typhoid, Tetanus, Tuberculosis and Japanese Encephalitis. Malaria is prevalent in most remote regions of Laos and it is best to consult with your doctor on the best preventative measures.

FOOD & DRINK

A typical Lao meal consists of steamed rice accompanied by fish, poultry or beef seasoned with chili or garlic. Fresh fruit and vegetables should always be peeled or washed thoroughly with purified water. Bottled water should be used at all times for drinking. Boiled drinks such as coffee or tea are fine. There are several restaurants in Vientiane and Luang Prabang offering international cuisine, including Italian, French, Thai and Chinese.

MEDICAL FACILITIES

It is recommended that visitors bring a basic travel first-aid kit with band-aids, anti-infection creams, mosquito repellant, anti-diarrhea tablets, and the like. Guests should also bring any prescription or over-the-counter drugs they may need. There are internationally-run emergency medical clinics in Vientiane.

HOSPITALS CONTACTS

An International medical clinic is operated by Mahosot Hospital, situated on the Bank of the Mekong River on Fa Ngum Road. It is open 24 hours and has the following emergency numbers:
Australian clinic emergency contact - Tel: (00856-21) 413603

International clinic emergency contact - Tel: (00856-21) 214022
The Australian and Swedish Embassies each operate up-to-date medical clinics, primarily for Embassy staff. However, consultation, and/or treatment of non-Embassy staff is undertaken, with payment as prescribed, and circumstances warranting, may be refused.

The Australian Embassy ClinicNehru, Street Phonexay. - Tel: 41-3603, 41-3610, 41-2343.Open Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri; 08:30-12:00 and 14:00-17:00and Wed; 8:30-12:00

Laos is a relatively safe destination. In almost all cases the Laotian people regard tourists with the highest level of respect as guests in their country. However petty theft and pick pockets do exist. It is certainly not something to be concerned about but you should be aware of your surroundings.

You should therefore ensure that all bags have sturdy locks. Place all valuables, including passport and air tickets in the in-room safe at hotels or at the front desk. It is best not to bring expensive jewelry or watches to Laos. Do not carry unnecessarily large amounts of cash with you at any time.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Police:
- Emergency Tel: 41-2536 (Police of Prefecture)
- Tourist Police: 021-251-128 (only for incidents involving tourists).
- Immigration Office: 021-212-520
- Chanthabouri District: 21-3907-8
- Xayasettha District: 41-2455
- Sikhottabong District: 21-2712
- Sisatanak District: 41-2538

International phones:
The central telephone office is located on Setthathilath Road near Nam Phu Circle (Nam Phu Fountain), and is opened from 08:00 to 22:00 daily. Fax, and telefax services are also available.
International Direct Dialing is available in Vientiane. When calling from overseas: the country code is 856, and the city code is 21

The General Post Office (GPO) is beside the Morning Market in Vientiane. Normal mail service is inexpensive and generally reliable, however for urgent or valuable mail (either to or from Laos) EMS or courier service is recommended.

International telephone calls, fax and e-mail access are all available in Vientiane and Luang Prabang.

Internet
Internet service is easy to find in most cities. Visitors are able to access the internet at hotels, internet cafes… Get useful information from these popular and reliable website: www.vientianetimes.org.la (Vientiane Times), www.lerenovateur.org.la (French language Newspaper) www.vientianemai.net (Vientiane Mai), www.laocustoms.lapdr.net (Laos Customs), www.lnmcmekong.org (Lao National Mekong Committee), www.laoembassy.com (Lao Embassy).

The central markets in Vientiane and Luang Prabang both offer a wide range of souvenirs, as do many of the cities' shops. However, while the majority of private shops have fixed prices, in the markets the art of bargaining still rules.

SHOPPING

Weaving - The art of weaving is still very much a home industry in Laos, where some of the finest silk and cotton weavers in the world can be found in the smallest of communities. Traditional designs and patterns vary from province to province, and the intricate work can be purchased much cheaper at the source than from many handicraft stores, markets and hotel shops. Antique woven pieces are still available but are becoming increasingly rare, often fetching very high prices.

Carving - From the simple and mundane, to the aesthetic and highly spiritual, Lao craftsmen can carve a wide variety of attractive pieces from wood, bone and stone.

Jewellery - The crafting of gold and silver jewellery is another skill at which the Lao people excel. Many of the best examples of silver jewellery to be found in the country are the work of several of the hilltribes. However, it should be noted that some silver and copper items exported from Laos are subject to tax according to weight. Gemstones, such as sapphires, can also be found at reasonable prices.

Artifacts - The export of antiques, such as Buddha images and other artifacts, is prohibited. Any antique items that have been purchased in another country must be declared to customs on arrival in Laos.

Fabrics - Laos is famous for its woven silk and cotton which are found in varying designs throughout the country. Each area has its own specific design. Most products eventually find their way to Vientiane and can be found in the Morning Market - a rainbow of colours of silks and cotton. If you do not find what you like when travelling round the country, make sure that you visit the morning market in Vientiane before you leave.

Lao women wear the traditional phaa sin - a wraparound skirt, worn by all government and office workers and school and university students. The sin is worn with a silver belt. A huge choice of phaa sin, shawls, bags and wall hangings can be found in the morning market and around Vientiane. As well as traditional Lao weavings, you will find hilltribe embroidery and quilts that can be used as wall hangings.

DINING

Lao cuisine shares many similarities with that of its neighbour Thailand. It is dry, spicy and delicious. Lao food is traditionally eaten with sticky rice and with the fingers. In the countryside, people will eat on a communal basis, sitting on the floor and sharing the dishes. The food eaten in Laos is influenced by its neighbours and the colonial French. Here are some favourites:

Laap - A traditional Lao food is made from chopped meat, chicken or duck is a favourite. The finely chopped meat, spices and broth is mixed with uncooked rice grains that have been dry fried, and crushed. Laap is eaten with a plate of raw vegetables and sticky rice.

Tam Mak Houng - A salad made from sliced raw papaya, garlic, chili, peanuts, sugar, fermented fish sauce and lime juice - it can be extremely spicy, so be careful!

Som moo - So Moo is fermented pork sausage, found in many forms. The sausage is made from raw pork - sometimes lean, sometimes pork skin. Som moo may be eaten raw or cooked. A mixture of som moo, tam mak koung and laap make a popular Lao lunchtime meal. Barbequed som moo, served Vietnamese style is popular in Laos. Known as Naem Nuang, it is served with transparent rice paper, thin noodles and lots of herbs, vegetables, lettuce and a sauce. You take all the ingredients, and build your own spring roll - watch the locals to see how it is done.

Foe - Pronounced 'fur' is the name for noodle soup, which can be found everywhere in Laos. It is similar in style to the Chinese noodle soup found all over Asia. Usually it is accompanied with lettuce, slices of lime, mint and coriander for additional flavour.

Bread - French Baguettes are found in the larger towns, served for breakfast, filled as a sandwich with pate, moo yor (a pork lunchmeat), vegetables, and chili sauce. Baguettes are also dunked into coffee for breakfast.

Salad - As well as French bread, you will find a lot of salad in Laos. The traditional Lao diet includes a lot of raw vegetables - but the French left the tossed salad behind. In Luang Prabang, they make a delicious salad made from watercress.

ELECTRICITY

The electric current is 220 volts. Power blackouts are frequent even in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. In small towns, the current can be off for long periods of time. After dark, it's best to keep a flashlight or candles handy. In most hotels adaptors are necessary for French and American sockets.

GIFTS

Small, practical gifts such as a sewing kit, or pens and paper, are very welcome. It is best to present gifts with the right hand.

CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT

Light cotton and linen clothing is best in tropical climates. Long trousers are recommended for visits to temples and pagodas. Long sleeved shirts and socks should be worn at dusk for protection against mosquitoes. Sunglasses, hats, and sunscreen are recommended for protection against the strong tropical sun. Bring a few items of warm clothing for trips to mountainous or highland areas where the temperature can be markedly cooler than in tropical lowlands.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Obtain permission before photographing monks or the interiors of pagodas and temples.

GENERAL ADVICE

The Lao people are friendly and hospitable. A minimum of effort will make your trip smooth and memorable. Try to learn the traditional Lao "nop" greeting, a gentle raise of the hand, and the phrase "sabai dee".

Please respect local dress standards, particularly at religious sites (avoid wearing shorts or sleeveless tops). In general, Lao dress standards are conservative, especially in the countryside.

Like the Chinese and Japanese, the Lao are obsessed with clean floors and it's usual to remove shoes when entering somebody's home. Shoes must be removed inside most Buddhist temples. If a bunch of shoes are piled up near the doorway, you should pay heed.

The generally accepted form of greeting among Lao people is the Nop, placing one's palms together in a position of praying, at chest level, but not touching the body. The higher the hands are held the greater the sign of respect. This is accompanied by a slight bow to show respect to persons of higher status or age. The Nop is not only an expression of greeting, but also of thanks, of regret or saying goodbye. However, it is appropriate to shake hands with westerners.

As in many Asian cultures, the head is considered the most sacred part of the body, and the soles of the feet are the lowliest. One should not touch a person's head nor use one's foot to point at a person or any object. Men and women rarely show affection in public. It is forbidden for a woman to touch a Buddhist monk.

It is customary to remove one's shoes or sandals when entering a Buddhist temple or private home. In Laos, homes are raised off the ground, shoes or sandals are left at the stairs. In a traditional home, one sits on low seats or cushions on the floor. Men may sits with legs crossed or folded to one side. Women sits with legs gracefully folded to the side. Guest may be served tea or fruit, which should not be refused. One should at least take a taste.

ZEN TRAVELLING

We suggest these tips for traveling successfully in Laos (and anywhere else, for that matter!):
1. Try your best to smile and be pleasant.
2. Don't complain loudly.
3. If you want to criticise someone, do it in a joking manner to avoid confrontation.
4. Expect delays - build them into your schedule.
5. Never show anger - ever ! Getting visibly upset is not only rude, it will cause you to lose face.

TIPPING

Tipping according to a percentage of the bill is not expected in Laos, but is enormously appreciated. In restaurants with table service, 10-15% of the bill is considered appropriate. You should also consider tipping drivers and guides. Typically, travelers on minibus tours will pool together to collect a communal tip to be split between the guide and the driver. About US$ 3 / day (per tourist) is standard. It is customary to make a small donation after visiting a pagoda, especially if a monk has shown you around.