Vidotour

Vietnam’s history is one of conquest and struggle going back more than two thousand years. At various times the region has been occupied by the feudal emperors of neighboring China and French colonialism. In between, Vietnam experienced numerous imperial dynasties resulting in the capital moving from Hanoi to Hue before the last emperor, Bao Dai’s abdication in 1945. But it would be a further 30 years before Vietnam became a unified nation. At the beginning of the Bronze Age about 15 groups of Lac Viet and Au Viet tribesmen settled in what is now northern and north-central Vietnam. The most powerful was the Lac Viet tribe of the Van Lang. The leader of this tribe joined the Lac Viet tribes together to found Van Lang Nation, addressing himself as Hung King. The Van Lang Nation lasted from the beginning of the first millennium B.C. to the 3rd century B.C.

In 208 B.C, Thuc Phan, the leader of an alliance of Au-Viet tribes expelled the Tan invaders from China and founded Au Lac Nation with groups of Lac Viet and Au Viet tribes. He became known as King An Duong Vuong. In 179 B.C. Trieu Da, the feudal King of Nam Viet (China) invaded Au Lac and began a domination that was to last for the next 700 years. Meanwhile in what is now southern Vietnam, the region became part of the kingdom of Funan and remained so until 600 A.D. The Hindu kingdom of Champa appeared around present-day Danang in the late 2nd century and spread south to what is now Nha Trang by the 8th century.

Back in the north in the spring of 542, Ly Bi rose up and swept away the Chinese administrators, liberating the territory. He declared himself King of Van Xuan Kingdom in 544. However Ly Bi's administration was short lived and he was defeated by the Chinese imperial army and the country reverted to Chinese domination again in 602. The name Van Xuan was restored only after the naval victory over the Chinese Han at Bach Dang River led by the inspirational General Ngo Quyen in 938 who lured the unsuspecting Chinese into an ingenious trap involving the planting of iron-tipped stakes in the riverbed which impaled the larger, heavier Chinese vessels. This victory effectively marked the end of almost 1,000 years of Chinese rule in Vietnam, although it was by no means the last time the Vietnamese would have to repel their larger northern neighbor.

In 968, Dinh Bo Linh unified the country and declared himself King, naming the country Dai Co Viet and establishing Hoa Lu (100km north of Hanoi) as the capital. By 1009 another dynasty, the Ly Dynasty had moved the capital to Thang Long (present day Hanoi). This period was marked by stable government and a flourishing of the arts including the creation of the Temple of Literature (Vietnam’s first university). The name Dai Co Viet remained until 1054 when a flaming bright star appeared in the sky for many days (Haley’s comet). Considered a good omen, the King changed the country’s name to Dai Viet. The Ly dynasty was replaced by the Tran dynasty whose first priority was to repel the formidable Mongol invaders in the North. They employed the same tactics used earlier by Ngo Quyen and another able-bodied leader, General Tran Hung Dao sank Kublai Khan’s Mongol fleet in 1288.

In March 1400, Ho Quy Ly usurped the throne of King Tran Thieu De, founded the Ho dynasty and once again the country's name changed, this time to Dai Ngu, meaning peace in the ancient language. Unfortunately peace did not last for long and in 1407 the mighty Minh Chinese invaded and defeated the Ho dynasty.

French colonial occupation was marked by poor pay and conditions for the vast majority of Vietnamese needed to work the coffee, tea and rubber plantations as well as the coal, zinc and tin mines. Against this background dissent and then rebellion became widespread, especially given the successful revolutions of first China in 1911 under Sun Yat-sen and then Russia in 1918 under Lenin. Vietnam’s communist visionary was Ho Chi Minh, the son of a teacher in Vinh province. In 1911 he left Vietnam and spent the next 30 years in a variety of jobs and locations, forming the Vietnamese Communist Party in 1930. His return in 1941 was the catalyst to Vietnam’s independence, initially from the Japanese and ultimately from the French. In the same year he founded the Viet Minh, primarily a nationalist organization aimed at deposing the French and securing an independent Vietnam. With the Japanese surrender in August 1945, Emperor Bao Dai resigned in Hue and on 2nd September 1945 Ho Chi Minh proclaimed himself president of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam in Hanoi’s Ba Dinh square. Ho Chi Minh's declaration of Vietnamese independence sparked violent confrontations with the French, leading to a nine-year struggle. The culmination of the struggle for independence from the French came in 1954 with the military defeat at Dien Bien Phu. Here the inspired military leadership of General Vo Nguyen Giap outwitted the French, under the command of General Navarre into committing 16,000 French troops to the remote northwest of the country. Here in a valley, the French were trapped by heavy artillery that the Vietnamese had somehow managed to set upon the surrounding heights.

Shortly after the Geneva Accords were drawn up, temporarily dividing Vietnam into two zones (the Communist north and the anti-Communist, US-supported south) along the lines of the 17th parallel, pending elections in 1956. The newly elected Prime Minister of South Vietnam, Ngo Dinh Diem refused to sign the agreement and the elections were never held. Opposition quickly turned from stalemate to armed struggle, prompting the USA and other countries to commit combat troops in 1965.

By 1968 there were over 500,000 US troops engaged in fighting the guerilla army of the Viet Cong (formerly the Viet Minh). The Viet Cong’s strength lay in its domination of the countryside and the peasant population. Although the Americans controlled the cities nearly 80% of Vietnamese live in rural areas. With this support the Viet Cong could conceal themselves and fight the American forces on their own terms and in their own time. The Americans believed that superior firepower alone would wear the enemy down – they were wrong. On January 30th 1968 just as the country was preparing to celebrate Tet, the Viet Cong simultaneously launched more than 100 attacks on every major town: The effect was devastating; at one point it looked as if Saigon itself might fall. This, coupled with the debacle at Khe Sanh (in effect an American Dien Bien Phu), turned the American public against continued US military presence in the region. From 1968 onwards US troops were gradually withdrawn and the South was ultimately left to defend itself, something it could not do. The Paris Peace Agreements, signed in 1973, provided an immediate cease-fire and signaled the withdrawal of US troops. Saigon eventually surrendered to the Communist forces on 30 April 1975 and was renamed Ho Chi Minh City shortly afterwards.

Following the liberation of Saigon, Vietnam was finally unified. In the first meeting of the national assembly of the unified Vietnam on July 2nd 1976, the assembly decided to name the country The Socialist Republic of Vietnam. The constitution of 1980, and 1992, continued its affirmation of the country's official name, legally and actually.

TET NGUYEN DAN (LUNAR NEW YEAR)

Tết Nguyên Đán, literally the ‘Festival of the First Day’ is the Lunar New Year period in Vietnam. Lasting 4-5 days, the vast majority of people simply refer to it as ‘Tet’.

More than the turning of the seasons, the importance of Tet has no equivalent in western cultures or societies. If one can imagine the combined importance of western Christmas, Easter, Thanksgiving, New Year’s Eve, Remembrance and Memorial days, that would begin to approach the solemnity, significance and joy of Tet for the Vietnamese people.

Steeped in myth, legend, ritual and tradition, Tet is a symbolic period of rebirth and renewal; of joy and merriment; a time for homecoming family reunions and fulfilment of filial piety duties.

Houses are spring-cleaned and spruced up with a lick of paint or whitewash. Ancestral graves are cleaned and repaired. New clothes are purchased. Friends are visited with token gifts and warm wishes for a happy, healthy, prosperous and successful new year. Debts are repaid and outstanding matters are finalized in preparation for a fresh, new beginning for the coming year.

In traditional legend, the Kitchen God (Ông Táo) would ride a giant carp to Heaven on the 23rd of the 12th Lunar month. The Kitchen God hears and sees all that happens within the house and reports to the Jade Emperor (Ngọc Hoàng) on the happenings over the previous year.

Vietnamese people enjoy a very close spiritual relationship with their ancestors. On New Year’s Eve, the head of the family will make offerings to the ancestors and invite them to return and join the family for Tet. In many families, a place will be set for the ancestors and food served.

Tradition and custom play a large part in Tet celebrations. Elders and children are presented with bright red envelopes containing money. Elders are wished happiness and longevity, while children are wished prosperity and happiness. Everything is prepared in advance so little or no work is done during the Tet period and the family can truly enjoy each others company in relaxation and festivity. The New Year’s Day is spent only with the family. The Second day for visiting extended family and neighbours, the third day for visiting friends and the fourth day for sightseeing. With every visit will be a meal, regardless of time of day as traditional Vietnamese hospitality overflows on this happiest of occasions.

AO DAI (TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE DRESS)

Like almost all societies that have risen from agrarian cultures, Vietnamese traditional attire was always plain, modest and practical. Simple trousers, skirts and shirts. For formal occasions in the countryside, a splash of colour may be added by a scarf worn around the waist or twisted into a turban as headwear.
With the passing of time and the influences of different regional climates and the introduction to western cultures, Vietnamese attire has evolved into what we see today. A classic case in point is the traditional “Áo Dài” or “long tunic”.

Historically a unisex ensemble of a long, loose, tunic-like gown with long sleeves and slits on either side, it was worn over loose fitting trousers. While the traditional “Áo Dài” will sometimes be worn by the Groom at his wedding, it is almost exclusively worn by women in modern Vietnam.

As the “Áo Dài” has evolved over the ages, so have its fashions. Once a simple ensemble in plain colours and cloth made to almost the same patterns, today the “Áo Dài” comes in a myriad of variations and designs. From sombre, respectful iterations with subdued colours and motifs for the family matriarch, to bright, stylized, coquettish numbers for eligible single women. No matter the design or style, they all share a single important commonality.

If she can afford it, no Vietnamese woman would dream of purchasing her perfect “Áo Dài” off the rack. The “Áo Dài” is made-to-measure with as many as 60 different measurements needed to ensure a fit to die for. The perfect “Áo Dài” should accentuate the bosom and flatter the derrière while highlighting the figure in lithe, graceful lines. Colours, fabrics, embroidered designs or motifs and accessories add to the perfection.

The grace and femininity of the “Áo Dài” have made it a ubiquitous symbol of Vietnamese culture and refinement. Worn as uniform by senior high school girls and female teachers, it is favoured by companies large and small for their female staff.

In some families, a young ladies first “Áo Dài” is seen as a symbol of her attaining womanhood. For many Vietnamese women in the countryside, they may have only one throughout their life. It will almost certainly be the most cherished item in their wardrobe. To see rural women resplendent in their “Áo Dài” is to know you are witness to an important occasion.

VIETNAMESE MARKETS

The size, purposes and locations of the markets are one of Vietnam’s most intriguing attractions. City or country; early morning or late evening; on a river or in a mountain clearing; every day or once a year; purely for commerce or with important social networking purposes; the markets are a window into the soul of the community.

Country Markets
In the Vietnamese countryside, there are three broad types of markets: a fair; an early morning market and an afternoon market. Rural towns will also usually have an all-day market. In the hamlets and villages, with available space always at a premium and for convenience sake, the early morning and afternoon markets may share the same location, differing only in the time of day and produce or goods purveyed. Most commonly, fresh produce in the morning and durable goods, household items, clothing, etc. in the afternoon.

Unusual Markets
Markets in the highlands and mountainous areas of Vietnam are especially fascinating because of the number of ethnic minority peoples they attract. Held weekly, these markets are a kaleidoscope of colours. With their villages perhaps two or three days walk away, these markets play a crucial role in forming and maintaining communities and cultures. The people may spend a couple of days at the market before making the arduous trek home.
In some regions, particularly largely homogenous ethnic areas, some markets serve as a match-making occasion. With many ethnic minority peoples living in villages of extended family groups, the market may be the only opportunity to meet a potential spouse. In time, these “love markets” as they are commonly called, have developed their own rituals and customs.
In the watery expanses of the Mekong Delta in southern Vietnam, the canals and waterways serve as the roads and highways and the boats as cars, trucks, taxis and even mobile “shops” in the floating markets.

Floating markets are common throughout the Delta. Many are both wholesale and retail markets with housewives in canoe-like paddle boats jostling for their daily shop in and out of larger vessels up to 100 tons or more transferring cargo for onward sale up river to the towns and cities. Often located near key towns with road access to the cities, the larger floating markets serve as transhipment points for primary produce heading north and manufactured goods heading south for distribution.

Ethnic Minority Markets
Sapa
The valleys and peaks surrounding Sapa are home to the Red Dzao and Black H’mong ethnic peoples. Like the ethnic minority peoples throughout the north-western highlands, they gather regularly at the market. The Saturday market in Sapa town sees them selling their produce, buying supplies, meeting friends and getting together socially.
For the Red Dzao, the weekly market also served as a “love market”. On Saturday evenings, the young men and women would court each other in song. Hidden in the darkness, the young suitors would follow the voice of a prospective partner if they liked her voice and the substance of her replies. When the couple ‘found’ each other, they would follow the customs and traditions to explore the possibility of courtship and matrimony.
With the arrival of tourists, the inherently shy Red Dzao young people no longer perform this match-making custom to the open public. However, a very authentic performance of the ritual is performed for visitors while the young people continue their personal performances away from prying eyes.
Aside from all manner of produce and livestock, Sapa Market offers a myriad of traditional Black H’mong and Red Dzao weaving and embroidery handicrafts, foods and drinks. The brightly coloured embroidered and dyed handicrafts, cloth, scarves and bags attract many travellers looking for an authentic souvenir to rekindle memories of their visit to this exotic market.

Ha Giang (Khau Vai)
Of all the markets throughout Vietnam’s north-western provinces, the Khau Vai “love market” in Meo Vac district of Ha Giang province is one of the most famous. Held only once each year on the evening of the 26th/27th of the 3rd Lunar month, the market attracts throngs of Nung, Red Dzao, White H’mong, Muong and Giay ethnic minority peoples seeking those they still hold a torch for from their youth.
Several legends exist as to the origin of the Khau Vai “love market”. However, all share the same theme of unfulfilled love. The most commonly recounted legend is that of a Giay lass and a Nung lad who found love. Since they were from different ethnic groups, marriage was forbidden. Taking no heed, the couple continued their relationship until the affair caused an outbreak of violence between their clans. The couple resolved to sacrifice their love for the sake of peace between their peoples. However, love is no weak thing. They agreed to meet secretly in Khau Vai for one day each year, and did so for the rest of their lives.
To this day, people come from far and wide in the hope of meeting their ‘old flame’. An air of nervous expectation pervades. Some will simply make longing eye contact and be satisfied with that. The lucky few will chat earnestly together, catching up on the past. Most, however, will not catch sight nor whisper from their past love amid the vibrantly coloured crowd.

THE SYSTEM OF VILLAGES AND NATIVE LANDS IN VIETNAM

Vietnam is endowed with a rich culture stemming from a wet rice civilization. Thus, the traditions of the Vietnamese people are closely attached to their villages and native lands. The definition for ' villages and native lands' means different things in the spoken and written language of each ethnic group in Vietnam.

Villages and native lands are defined as Lang in the Vietnamese language, Chieng in the Tay-Thai language, Ban in the Muong language, and Buon Play in the languages of several other ethnic minority groups inhabiting the Central Highlands. The Lang (village) is an extremely interwoven social unit. It is not only an administrative organization but an economic unit based on sections of farmland. Farmers living in the same village are closely linked by family, community or business.

Thus, the habits, religious practices and festivals are all based on the origins of the village. Deep in the recess of every Vietnamese person's memory are the permanent images of his or her village. It may be a Banyan tree standing at the front gate of the village or the bamboo groves surrounding it, deep water wells, the roof of the village temple, a distant mountain peak, a nearby river, paddy fields or the joyous sounds of the bustling village.

JANUARY / FEBRUARY

January and February are the most interesting festival months in the year in Vietnam. Plenty of the festivals and special events would be organized throughout Vietnam.

TET (starting date 03Feb, 2011)
There is no more colorful time to be in Vietnam than during the days leading up to "Tet Nguyen Dan", the most important festival of the year for the Vietnamese people. Since the first days of lunar year are thought to set the tone for the next 12 months, everyone strives to plan the perfect Tet. In Hanoi, the narrow lanes of the Old Quarter are a hive of activity. Everyone is in a rush to get a haircut, buy new clothes, spruce up their homes, visit friends, settle outstanding debts, and stock up on traditional Tet delicacies. Businesses hang festive red banners, which read "Chuc Mung Nam Moi" (Happy New Year) and city streets are festooned with colored lights. Stalls spring up all over town to sell "mut" (candied fruits and jams), traditional cakes, and fresh fruit and flowers. Certain markets sell nothing but cone-shaped kumquat bushes. Others sell flowering peach trees, symbols of long life and good fortune which people bring into their homes to celebrate the coming of spring. As vendors pour into the city with peach trees strapped to their bicycles, the streets look like moving pink forests.

In the south, people bring yellow "mai" (apricot) branches into their homes and place a coconut, a papaya, a mango and a custard apple on the family altar. 3 crucial meetings are said to take place on Tet. The first is between the 3 family deities: Tien su, the deity responsible for introducing the family to its traditional career: "Tho Cong", who oversees the land where the family lives; and "Tao Quan", the Kitchen God, who cares for the family's food.

The second meeting takes place between the dead and the living. People place offerings of food and drinks on ancestral altars, light incense, and invite their ancestors to join the family's Tet celebrations. The third meeting involves the immediate family. On New Year's Eve, family members gather for a dinner of traditional food such as "banh chung" (a square cake made of glutinous sticky rice stuffed with beans and pork), "mang" (a soup of boiled bamboo shoots and fried pork) and "xoi gac" (orange sticky rice). This is followed by a visit to the local pagoda and perhaps an outing to see the town's fireworks.

YEN TU FESTIVAL (starting date 12Feb, 2011)
Located some 130km northwest of Hanoi, the 1,068-meter mountain of Yen Tu has been an important Buddhist pilgrimage site since the 10th century. Ancient documents refer to Yen Tu as "White Cloud Mountain", a fitting name given that, year-round, the summit is shrouded in mist. The mountain is dotted with 11 pagodas and hundreds of stupas, religious relics and the tombs of Buddhist monks. One old text describes the stupa towers as "a forest of spires". Reaching the summit takes 3 to 4 hours of hard uphill walking along a steep and narrow path, made all the more treacherous by tree roots snaking across it. Pine trees line the path and the surrounding forest contains mahogany, rosewood and clumps of huge, yellow bamboo. During the pilgrimage season, which runs from January 10th to March 31st of the lunar calendar, the hills are awash with rhododendron and camellia blossoms. On January 16th of the lunar calendar Yen Tu Mountain hosts a major religious festival. Those who make it to the summit will find a small, bronze-roofed structure called Dong (Bronze) Pagoda. Built in 1994, this shrine occupies the site of a destroyed 17th century pagoda. Nearby stands a large stab of stone known as the "Fairy Chessboard" and a huge bronze belt. Spread to the east, like scattered beads, are the islands of Ha Long Bay. To the west lie the shimmering green deltas of Hai Duong and Bac Ninh provinces. And to the north, beyond Hai Phong, lie the forests and mountains of northern Viet nam.

But it's not the panoramic views that inspire most visitors to make the arduous climb to the summit. According to legend, anyone who reaches the top of Yen Tu, offers prayers and incense to the Buddha and strikes the bronze bell 3 times will be blessed with wealth, good health and happiness. For centuries, devout Vietnamese Buddhists have followed the advice of this poem:
Although you worship the Buddha for a thousand years You cannot attain enlightenment without having reached the summit of Yen Tu.

LIM FESTIVAL (starting date 15Feb, 2011)
Lim village is only 18km from Hanoi and every year pays host to the Quan Ho folk song festival. Thousands of visitors come here to enjoy singing competitions between the country's most skilled “lien anh" (male singers) and "lien chi" (female singers). In addition visitors come to enjoy the weaving competition of the Noi Due girls who weave and sing Quan Ho songs at the same time. As with many traditional festivals there is a host of other activities on show including colorful processions and temple games.

NUI BA FESTIVAL (starting date 17Feb, 2011)
If you go to Tay Ninh, you should visit Nui Ba, a beautiful mountain located in the middle of the Mekong Delta, 11km from Tay Ninh. Nui Ba (Ba Mountain) is often called Ms. Den Mountain. According to legend, the mountain was named after a young woman called Den, the devout daughter of a guard officer of the Mien ethnic minority group. Den left her house to enter a monastery in the mountains. She became a nun due to family pressure to marry a guard officer's son. She remained at the monastery until she died. After her death, the Nguyen Dynasty ordered that a mould of her be cast in black bronze in her honor as the Linh Son Thanh Mau (Saint Linh Son). During the spring until the afternoon of the 30th day of the 1st lunar month, and especially on the day of the full moon of the first month, tourists from Ho Chi Minh City and the provinces of the south make a pilgrimage to worship. Starting at the bottom of the mountain, they climb one half of the mountain to Saint Linh Son's communal house and then follow a path that leads to a pagoda offering vegetarian meals. People may eat as much as they want, but are obliged to donate some money to the pagoda.

PERFUME PAGODA FESTIVAL (starting date 08Feb, 2011)
Vietnam’s most celebrated festival is held each February at the Perfume Pagoda, 70km south of Hanoi. It is the most famous Buddhist pilgrimage site in northern Vietnam and every year literally tens of thousands of pilgrims travel to the sacred cave to pray for happiness and prosperity for the coming year. The trip to the cave, set high up in a limestone mountain is made all the more interesting as visitors have to board small row boats and cruise through a dramatic landscape of rocky outcrops and lush rice paddies in order to reach the foot of the mountain. From the riverbank, visitors continue on foot, past various pagodas and shrines, up hundreds of stone steps, all worn smooth by the passage of time and countless feet.

COW RACING FESTIVAL
Each year on the last day of the Khmer calendar, the Khmer, an ethnic minority group living in the Mekong Delta stage a festival to honor their ancestors. The festival begins with a visit to the pagoda, where Khmer families invite the souls of their ancestors to dine with the living. Visitors arriving during the festival will be warmly received as the Khmer believe they are messengers sent by their ancestors. Following a visit to the pagoda people walk to the nearest stream or river where they tie the trunks of banana trees together to form rafts. Offerings are placed on the rafts, which are then placed in the water and swept away by the current.

These quiet, dignified ceremonies are in marked contrast to the highlight of the festival, the cow race. The racetrack, set in a muddy and slippery paddy field is 120m long, with both the start and finish lines marked with red and green flags. Each race involves two pairs of cows, controlled by two young men. To make their job more challenging the rules dictate that the cows must run in a straight line and will be disqualified for veering off course. The races are both exciting and hilarious. People travel from miles around to watch, bringing food and organizing picnics. Part rodeo, part race and part comedy, a Khmer cow race is an unforgettable spectacle.

MARCH / APRIL

HUNG TEMPLE FESTIVAL (starting date 12Apr,2011)
According to legend, the ancestors of the Vietnamese people were born on Mount Nghia Linh in northern Vietnam. The story tells of Au Co, a northern mountain princess, who married a sea dragon named Lac Long Quan. Au Co gave birth to 100 eggs, which hatched to reveal 100 sons. From their birthplace on Mount Nghia Ljnh, 50 sons followed their father to the sea, while the rest stayed with their mother to rule the land. These sons became Vietnam's first rulers, the mythical Hung Kings. The Hung Temple Festival runs from March 9th of the lunar calendar to March 11th. Visitors climb 225 steep stone steps to reach Ha (Lower) Temple, the place where Au Co is said to have given birth. Another 168 steps lead to Trung (Middle) Temple, where the Hung kings performed religious ceremonies to honor the Sky, Earth, Mountain and Paddy Spirits. Each year during the Hung Temple Festival, people gather to perform the ancient ceremonies - lighting incense, offering sticky rice and beating bronze drums. These rituals are followed by a bustling temple fair. Entertainments include bamboo swings, wrestling matches, sword dances, folk songs and traditional operas.

CHU DONG TU FESTIVAL (starting date 12Apr, 2011)
This festival honors Chu Dong Tu, the divine reincarnation of a fisherman said to have lived in the 3rd century B.C. According to legend, Chu Dong Tu and his father were so poor that they only had one loincloth between them. Since they owned neither boat nor house, when one was out fishing, the other, to hide his nakedness, would sit in the reeds that lined the riverbank. Eventually the father passed away and the son, not wishing to send him into the next world naked, used their loincloth as a shroud. From that time forth, Chu Dong Tu lived alone amongst the reeds, venturing out of the water only at night. One day he was paddling in the shallows when he saw a fleet of splendid boats drawing near. The boats belonged to none other than Princess Tien Dung, the lovely daughter of the 18th Hung King. Since the scenery in this area was beautiful and the day was hot, the princess decided to stop and swim.

By chance, the princess chose to bathe at the very same spot where Chu Dong Tu lay hidden. She was in the midst of bathing when she saw him, partly hidden by sand. When she got over her shock, the princess realized that this strange encounter must be a sign from the gods. She ordered her servants to bring clothes for Chu Dong Tu, then brought him back to the royal palace and married him. Chu Dong Tu is believed to have become a god, said to have power over trading, farming and fishing. Fishermen in particular worship Chu Dong Tu and, each year, in the middle of the 3rd lunar month, hold a festival in his honor. At the best-known Chu Dong Tu temple in Hung Yen province northeast of Hanoi, the festivities last for 3 days. The festival opens with a water procession led by a golden dragon. When the procession reaches the riverbank, water is poured into a jar to symbolize the princess' bath. Young girls perform dances and, outside the temple, there are wrestling matches, cock fights, human chess matches, and folk dances. The following day a procession makes its way to the site where the couple's magic castle is said to have stood.

WHALE FESTIVAL (starting date 12Apr, 2011)
For centuries the Whale Festival has been the largest water festival of the fishermen in Quang Nam, Danang province. The worshipping of the whale is not only about paying respect to their God, but also about ensuring prosperity for the villagers. The festival lasts for 2 days in the middle of the 3rd lunar month. To celebrate the occasion the whale temple as well as all the houses and boats are beautifully decorated. The peace offering is conducted in the first evening at the whale temple by village elders. Offerings, which do not contain seafood, are given while the oration is read out. The ceremony is held to respect the Whale God and to pray for the safety and prosperity of the village. At dawn the following day, there is a procession of boats on the sea in set formation. This procession displays the sincerity of fishermen to their Whale God. By midnight, the official ceremony is concluded as school children offer incense and the orchestra plays a classical opera.

ELEPHANT RACE FESTIVAL (starting date 12Apr, 2011)
This festival is held in the spring, around the 3rd month of the lunar calendar. It is usually held in Don Village near the Sevepoi River in the Central Highlands province of Dak Lak. The race track is on even ground and the width of the track is large enough for 10 elephants to stand in a line at the same time whilst the length of the track is between 1-2 km. With the sound of the horn, the mahouts command their elephants to proceed to the starting line. With the command to start the elephants rush ahead, excited by the sound of the drums, gongs, and cheering from the crowd. At the end of the race, the winning elephants raise their trunks to salute the crowd and receive sugarcane from them. The elephant race is the largest festival in the Central Highlands. It embodies the combative spirit of the M'nong ethnic group, who are famed for their bravery and skill in hunting wild elephants.

HON CHEN TEMPLE FESTIVAL (starting dates 05Apr & 02Aug, 2011)
The Hon Chen Temple Festival is organized twice every year, in the 3rd and the 7th lunar months. The festival takes place at the Hon Chen temple, 10 km west of Hue. It starts with a procession referred to as the God Welcoming ceremony; it is said to bring all the worshipped Gods from the village’s temples and shrines to the communal house where various rituals are performed, including the procession in honor of Saint Mother Thien Y A Na. The procession takes place at night with a long line of boats bound together into bigger rafts, on the Perfume River shining with myriad of lights. The Hon Chen Temple Festival includes a performance filled with imperial characters. Actors dressed in clothes with splendid turbans and tunics look like princes and princesses of the Nguyen dynasty. These shows take place in the natural settings of mountains, hills, and rivers. This Antique Museum of Nature also shows flags, fans, hammocks, umbrellas, weapons, and offerings that visitors would be unable to see.

MAY / JUNE

PHU DONG FESTIVAL (starting date 10May, 2011)
According to legend, during the rule of the 6th Hung King, the land of Van Lang was invaded by northern An forces. The king sent envoys throughout the country, calling for help to repel the enemy. At that time, there lived a 3-year old boy named Giong who was unable to walk or speak. When the child heard the king's messengers, he suddenly leapt to his feet and announced that he would save the country. Brought before the king, Giong requested a coat of armor, an iron horse and a spear. He then ate 7 baskets of rice and 7 baskets of eggplants, after which he was transformed into a muscular young man. Giong donned the armor, mounted the horse and galloped off to war. When Giong's spear finally broke, he uprooted sticks of bamboo and used them to mow down the invaders. Each year, villagers from Phu Dong in the Gia Lam District of Hanoi organize a festival to honor Lord Giong and re-enact the epic battle. One of the most important ceremonial events in the Red River Delta, the Phu Dong Festival runs from the 6th to the 12th day of the fourth lunar month.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER

MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL (starting date 12Sep, 2011)
In the days leading up to the Mid-Autumn Festival, the toy shops lining Luong Van Can Street, in Hanoi's 0ld Quarter are festooned with colorful masks and plastic lanterns shaped like fish, dragons and lobsters. Walk further into the Old Quarter, to Hang Ma Street, and you'll pass groups of children carrying traditional star-shaped lanterns, dragon masks, and feathered tiaras. But you need not be in Hanoi to enjoy the festivities. The Mid-Autumn Festival, also known as the "Moon-Gazing Festival" is held throughout Vietnam. The festival stems from a legend about a Chinese king who was briefly transported to the moon. Upon his return to earth the king decided to share his vision of the moon by hosting a magnificent festival. Today, the Mid-Autumn Festival is devoted to children. On the 15th evening of the 8th lunar month, families prepare a feast of sticky rice, fruit and boiled chicken, placed on their ancestral altars. Incense is lit and the ancestors are invited to join the celebrations. Children receive toys, masks, lanterns and moon cakes (square cakes filled with onions and spices) and round "deo" cakes made of sticky rice stuffed with a sweet paste of lotus and soybeans.

In central and southern Vietnam people hide moon cakes around their houses and invite the neighbor’s children to find them. A house full of children looking for moon cakes is said to bring good luck. Lion dances are also thought to ensure good fortune. Accompanied by gongs and bells, a man in a huge lion mask is followed by a train of children. This dance is based on a legend about an old woman who was caught by a lion on the night of the Mid-Autumn Festival. She asked the lion to allow her to attend the evening's festivities, promising to return the next day and accept her fate. The lion agreed and the woman joined her neighbors in celebration. Come morning, she remembered her predicament and began to cry at which time the gods intervened and sent a magical snake to save her. The dance is a recreation of the fight between the snake and the gullible lion.

DO SON BUFFALO FIGHTING FESTIVAL (starting date 06Sep, 2011)
2 buffaloes face each other, heads lowered, wild-eyed. Around the ring, the crowd falls silent, until the only sound is that of the buffaloes' angry snorts. Suddenly, they charge. There's a shuddering jolt as the buffaloes lock horns. The ground shakes with the force of their impact and the onlookers go wild, screaming in support. Finally one buffalo tires and unable to withstand the punishing blows he turns to flee. The victor follows, eager for blood, and the crowd emits a gasp.

Preparations for the Do Son buffalo festival begin months in advance. In the 6th lunar month each hamlet selects one buffalo specially bred and trained to fight. On August 9th of the lunar calendar, the festival opens with a ritual offering to the gods of a buffalo, a pig and a basket of sticky rice. Next comes a procession in which 12 young men carry a palanquin, followed by drummers, musicians and 6 fighting buffaloes, flanked by a second group of 12 men, all dressed in red. Matches can last for hours and in some cases the fights run late into the night. Finally the exhausted buffaloes are led away and a winner is declared. The victor's glory, however, is short-lived. That night all of the buffaloes will be slaughtered and the meat distributed to the participating hamlets. The festival ends when the head of the winning buffalo is thrown into the ocean as a tribute to the God of the Sea.

NOVEMBER / DECEMBER

KATE FESTIVAL (starting date 09Nov, 2011)
Each year, between the 14th and 17th day of the 10th lunar month, members of the Cham and Raglai minority groups hold a major religious festival. The celebrations take place in various forest temples near Thuan Hai in southern Vietnam, in honor of the Sun God. According to Cham beliefs, at this time the gates of the underworld open and the dead return to earth. Preparations for the festival begin in the 9th lunar month, when priests collect clothes and offerings of chickens, bananas, betel nuts, tea and other precious goods. These items are brought to a temple, where the deity is petitioned to hold the festival.

On the first day of the festival, priests make votive food offerings and then take their place at the head of a solemn procession. Images of the Sun God are given to various shrines and temples, including the region's ancient Cham towers at Po Nagar and Po Klong Garai. The streets reverberate with the sound of gongs, drums and voices, as hundreds of people join the parade. During the procession songs are sung as onlookers pray for a good harvest, peace and happiness. Following these prayers, a statue of the Sun God is bathed in spring water, dressed in colorful ceremonial robes and a hat. Onlookers bow down in prayer. When the water used to bathe the statue is thrown away, everyone surges forward in the hope of catching a drop. It is said that whoever is splashed with this sacred water will have good luck. After sunset on the first night of the festival, the village erupts in raucous celebration. Musicians and actors take the stage, singing folk songs and reciting traditional poems and prayers. Youngsters compete in traditional games and wrestling matches.

GHE NGO FESTIVAL (stating date 10Nov, 2011)
According to the Khmer people, the 15th day of the 10th lunar month marks the end of their year. Khmer people in the Mekong Delta celebrate this event with ceremonies, feasts and Ngo boat races. On the Khmer New Year's Eve, villagers gather in the grounds of their local pagoda. The moon is invited to watch the ceremonies, which begin with the construction of a bamboo archway, decorated with leaves and flowers. Beneath this arch stands a table on which villagers place votive food offerings. When the moon appears, an old man lights incense and candles and prays to the Moon Deity. Following this, children kneel and raise their clasped hands to the moon. The host of the ceremony places chunks of sticky rice in the children's mouths, pats them on the back and tells them to make a wish. These wishes are said to foreshadow the fate of the community in the coming year. Following the ceremony the festivities begin. Lantern-rockets made of paper and powered by burning oil, spiral into the air. Candles are lit and the dripping wax, collected on banana leaves, is used to predict the weather. Rafts made of banana leaves are released on canals. The following day features Ghe Ngo (Ngo boat) races. The long, slim boats, often made from the hollowed-out trunk of a tree, can hold up to 50 men. One man is chosen to sit on the prow, where he will pray to the gods and entertain the rowers. The races themselves are thrilling, as the rowers push themselves to the limit, encouraged by the cheers of the crowd.

The basic principle of customs policy in Vietnam is that visitors should enter and exit with the same goods and personal possessions with the following exceptions:

1. Cash amounts greater than US$ 7,000 (formerly US$ 3,000) should be declared upon entry or exit.

2. Souvenirs: Visitors are free to buy products in Vietnam for personal use. The exception to this principle is antiques. Antiques considered of "national interest" will be confiscated without refund or recourse. In general this applies to articles of ancient (over 50 years old) or religious nature. "National interest" is interpreted by an expert at the airport. In cases where a visitor is unsure of the acceptability of the export of any goods purchased, they can check with the Customs Office in either Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi for prior ruling without risk of confiscation.
To avoid confiscation of goods not purchased, visitors must be sure an accurate description appears on the Customs Declaration form upon arrival. Particular note should be taken of antiques purchased in other countries in the region which might possibly be deemed of Vietnamese origin. Also, extra care should be taken to declare loose gemstones and jewelry.

3. Firearms, narcotics and other internationally prohibited goods are banned and those found in possession of such items are liable to prosecution. Items that you cannot bring into Vietnam include weapons, munitions, explosives and inflammables, firecracker of all kinds, opium and drugs, toxic chemicals, and cultural materials unsuitable to Vietnamese society (pornographic seditious publications, films and photos), harmful child toys. If you break these rules you will be subject to Vietnamese law.

Duty Free Allowance

Alcohol above 22 % concentration: 1.5 liters; below 22%: 2.0 liters; alcoholic beverages: 3.0 liters. Cigarettes: 400; cigars: 100; raw tobacco: 500g. Tea: 5 kg, coffee: 3 kg.

Clothes and other items are for personal use only. Other items must not fall into the list of prohibited items and may not exceed US$ 300 in value.

To save time you should clearly note down any of the following in the entry and customs form:
1. Camera, recorder and other electric equipment not for personal use;
2. Jewelry (especially gold) and precious stones not for personal use;
3. Foreign currency (cash, coin and tourist cheques): over US$ 7,000 or other foreign currency of the same value, or over VND 15 million in cash;
4. Videotapes will be checked and returned in several days;
5. Gold (over 300 g): If more than 3,000 g, you are required to deposit and re-export the surplus;
6. Other commodities out of duty-free luggage.

When leaving Vietnam: A quantity over 300g of gold must be declared and be permitted by the State Bank. You are not allowed to bring out weapons, munitions, explosives, drugs, antiques, live wild animals, rare plants, and documents relating to the national security. If you break these rules you will be subject to Vietnamese law.

The official currency is the Dong (VND). Throughout the country, American dollars are widely accepted. However, the bills must be relatively new with no markings or tears. Several big cities accept the Euro. Traveler's cheques are easily exchangeable in banks and credit cards are becoming more readily acceptable, especially in the major hotels and restaurants of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

The exchange rate for the US Dollar at time of publishing is US$ 1.00 = 19,000 Dong; and for Euro is EU$ 1.00 = 24,000 Dong. Travelers' cheques can be cashed at major banks for a service fee of 2%-5%. Visa, Master, American Express and Diner's Club are widely accepted at most of the larger hotels, restaurants and shops.

Nowadays, ATMs (Automated Teller Machine) are widely available in most cities.

Denominations of 500,000; 100,000; 50,000; 20,000, 10,000, 5,000, 1,000, and 500VND are available in note form. In addition several new coins were introduced in 2004 in the denominations of 5,000; 2,000; 1,000; 500 and 200 Dong.

VACCINATIONS

No vaccinations are required. However, visitors are advised to have up-to-date inoculations for Cholera, Hepatitis A and B, Malaria, Typhoid, Tetanus, Tuberculosis and Japanese Encephalitis.

Malaria is a mosquito-borne illness and is prevalent in only the most remote regions of Vietnam especially during the rainy season when mosquitoes breed. There are several ways to reduce the possibility of contracting malaria. Mosquitoes are most active at dawn and dusk and so it’s advisable to wear long sleeves, trousers and socks at these times and to apply repellent to any exposed skin. It is best to consult with your doctor on the best preventative measures.

FOOD & WATER

Fresh fruit and vegetables should always be peeled or washed thoroughly with purified water. Bottled water should be used at all times for drinking. Boiled drinks such as coffee or tea are fine. Ice is usually OK at restaurants, but should be treated carefully.

MEDICAL FACILITIES

Over the counter prescription drugs are widely available in major cities, but it is best to bring frequently used medicines from home. It is also recommended that visitors bring a basic travel first-aid kit with band-aids, anti-infection creams, mosquito repellant, and the like. There are several medical clinics in Hanoi and Saigon staffed by foreign medical personnel.

HOSPITALS CONTACTS

HANOI

Bach Mai Hospital
Giai Phong St.
Tel: +84 (4) 869-3731 / 869-3732

Huu Nghi (Friendship) Hospital
1 Tran Khanh Du St.
Tel:+84 (4) 825-2231

Vietnam International Hospital
Phuong Mai - Dong Da
Tel: +84 (4) 574-0740

Viet - Duc Hospital
40 Trang Thi St.
Tel: 84 (4) 825-5912

Vietnam - Cuba Hospital
37 Hai Ba Trung St.
Tel: +84 (4) 825-5954/825-3304

Saint Paul Hospital
59 Tran Phu St.
Tel: 84 (4) 823-3064/823-3073

Vietnam French Hospital
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da
Tel: +84 (4) 574-0740
Fax: +84 (4) 869-8443
Emergency: +84 (4) 574-1111

Hanoi Family Medical Practice
Van Phuc, Bldg A1 Suite 109 - 112 Kim Ma Road
Tel: +84 (4) 843-0748; +84 (4) 846-1748/49
Fax: +84 (4) 846-1750 - 24-hour
Emergency: 0903-401-919

International SOS - 24 hour alarm center
31 Hai Ba Trung St.
Tel: +84 (4) 934-0555
Fax: +84 (4) 934-0556

HUE

Hue Central Hospital
16 Lê Lợi - Hue - Viet Nam
Tel: 054-822325, 822326
Fax: 054-823324

HOI AN

Pacific Hospital
06. Phan Dinh Phung St., Hoi An town, Quang Nam province, Vietnam
Tel: (084) 510 3921656 - 3921398 - 921887
*Emergency : 3921888 *Fax : (084) 3510 921 657

HO CHI MINH CITY

Cho Ray Hospital
201B Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dist. 1
Tel: +84 (8) 855-4137/8
Fax: +84 (8) 855-7267

Columbia Gia Dinh Clinic
01 No Trang Long, Binh Thanh Dist.
Tel: +84 (8) 803-0678
Fax: +84 (8) 803-0677

International SOS - 24 hour alarm center
65 Nguyen Du, Dist. 1
Tel: +84 (8) 829-8424
Fax: +84 (8) 829-8551
Emergency Number: +84 (8) 829-8520

Columbia Saigon Clinic
8 Alexandre De Rhodes St., Dist. 1
Tel: +84 (8) 823-8455
Fax: +84 (8) 823-8454

DIAG Center
146 An Binh St., Dist. 5
Tel: +84 (8) 838-1551
Fax: +84 (8) 838-1554

Heart Institute
520 Nguyen Tri Phuong St. , Dist. 10
Tel: +84 (8) 865-4026 (24 hours)
consultations & hospitalizations

Emergency Centre
125 Le Loi St., Dist. 1
Tel:+84 (8) 829-0898

Institute Pasteur
167 Pasteur St. Dist. 3
Tel:+84 (8) 823-0352

Orthodontology Center
263 Tran Hung Dao, Dist. 1
Tel: +84 (8) 829-8520

HCM Family Medical Practice
34 Le Duan, Ben Nghe, Dist. 1
Tel: +84 (8) 822-7848/49

Central Medical International
24-hour Emergency Number: +84 (8) 865-4025
1 Han Thuyen St., Dist. 1
Tel: +84 (8) 827-2366
Fax: +84 (8) 827-2365

VNSERVICE
24-hour Emergency Number: 0903-947-702
236 Dien Bien Phu St., Dist. 3
Tel: +84 (8) 932-0496
Fax: +84 (8) 932-0232

Franco-Vietnam Hospital (FV Hospitals)
236 Le Thanh Ton Ward Ben Thanh, Dist 1
Tel: +84 (8) 827-4113
Fax: +84 (8) 827-4114

Vietnam is widely acknowledged to be one of the safest destinations in the world. In almost all cases the Vietnamese people regard tourists with the highest level of respect as guests in their country. However petty theft and pick pockets do exist in the larger cities. In other areas reports of these activities are almost unheard of. It is certainly not something to be concerned about but you should be aware of your surroundings.

You should therefore ensure that all bags have sturdy locks. Place all valuables, including passport and air tickets in the in-room safe at hotels or at the front desk. It is best not to bring expensive jewelry or watches to Vietnam. Do not carry unnecessarily large amounts of cash with you at any time.

CHILDREN & BEGGARS

Foreigners walking through the streets of Vietnam occasionally find themselves surrounded by a throng of curious children. Saying a quick "hello" with a smile will satiate their curiosity. Beggars are part of the streetscape of any major city, including those in Vietnam. However, travelers should be wary of requests for large amounts from beggars in the centre of Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi as they are usually part of organized street gangs.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

0 National Domestic Direct Dialing Access Code
00 International Direct Dialing Access Code
113 Police
114 Fire Brigade
115 Ambulance
1080 Directory enquiries

POSTAL RATES

Postcards to Europe or the USA cost about US$0.50. Items mailed from anywhere other than large towns and cities are likely to take over a month to arrive at their destination. Vietnam's express mail service (EMS) has faster delivery to international destinations. International express delivery companies like Federal Express (FedEx) and DHL both have offices in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Besides, FedEx also have offices in Hai Phong, Danang, Nha Trang, Tay Ninh and Mekong Delta provinces; DHL have offices in Dong Nai, Vung Tau, Binh Duong, Hai Phong and Nam Dinh.

Regular international post service is available. In addition, there are some new specialized services:
Express Mail Service (EMS): The domestic EMS ensures that letters and small parcels are delivered within 24-48 hours. International EMS is associated with nearly 50 countries worldwide, with a delivery time ranging from 2 to 10 days according to each region.

Delivery within Asian countries: from 2 to 5 days
Delivery within European countries: from 3 to 7 days
Delivery within American countries: from 5 to 10 days
Air mail and small parcels, however, are subjected to additional charges.
Express money transfer: Money is delivered to the receiver within 24 - 48 hours.
Flower delivery: can be ordered by telephone. This service delivers messages such, as greetings or condolences, together with flowers, money, or goods (allowed in circulation) to the receiver by request of the sender.

TELECOMMUNICATION SERVICES

International long-distance calls (direct):
To make an international direct dial (IDD) call, first dial the international prefix (00) followed by the country code, area code, and the local number. If you are unable to contact the requested number, dial 18001001 for operator assistance.

Domestic long-distance calls:
To place a domestic long-distance call, first dial the national prefix (0) followed by the area code and local number. If you are unable to reach the required number, dial 101 for operator assistance.

Facsimile (Fax):
Fax machines are quickly proliferating in Vietnam. Public and registered fax machines are available in hotels, businesses, and public offices.

Local and international phonecards, mobile phones, pagers, and database netlink services are also available. The "1080, 1088" service is for inquiries by phone on socio-economic and cultural information. This service also runs an advertisements and business self-introduction scheme.

EMAIL & INTERNET ACCESS

All major hotels provide internet access in their business centres. Internet cafes have sprouted up throughout the country and can be found in nearly every city frequented by foreign tourists.

CELL PHONE/ MOBILE PHONE SERVICE

In Vietnam you will be able to use your mobile phone as long as it is programmed for roaming internationally. You may also rent a mobile phone, which may be easier, or buy a pre-paid phone card. (This service is available at your hotel or at a Mobile Phone Service Center)